Frequently Asked Questions

1.    Can I save costs by washing my own pet before a grooming? 
All pets are recommended to be bathed and cleaned at their grooming appointment. There are many steps to grooming, and the proper finished result cannot be obtained unless the entire process has been finished by your groomer. We usually do a “rough” cut, followed by a bath and dry your dog, then a final “finishing” cut is done.

2.    My pet's coat is very matted - can you comb this out? 
If your pet has minor matting, it is possible that it can be worked out. If your pet has excessive matting, unfortunately, no. Your pet will have to be shaved very close to the skin and start growing a new coat from scratch. Many people believe that the brushing out process does not hurt, well it does, more than you can imagine. It is inhumane to put that much stress and pain on your pet just for beauty’s sake. Clippering off all of the fur is the only humane solution to this problem.

3.    How much does it cost to groom my pet? 
Grooming rates vary depending on the breed and size of your pet, the condition the coat is in, the style of hair cut, and the behavior of your pet. A personal consultation is required to receive a more direct quote on price. We can give you an “estimate” over the phone, but until we see the pet it is very difficult to give you an accurate quote. Please see our page on fees, but know that every pet is priced on a personal basis and even though your breed price is quoted at a specific rate, your dogs actual price might be higher or lower than the written quote.

4.    Do you tranquilize or sedate pets before you bathe or groom them? 
Absolutely not! We are equipped and trained to handle jittery, nervous dogs without the use of sedatives or tranquilizers. If you feel you should medicate your pet for calming reasons, that is for you and your doctor to handle and decide. Any kind of medication or sedative should be discussed with your doctor before administering to your pet. We feel that it is very dangerous for your pet, and for our staff to work on a drugged pet. If your pet must be drugged to be safely groomed, we suggest that you have a groomer who works at the vets office do the job. WE WILL NOT WORK ON PETS WHO HAVE BEEN GIVEN SEDATIVES.

5.    Should I have my dog shaved during the summer months? 
Not necessarily, it really depends on the breed. While some breeds benefit from a closer clip during the hot months, some breeds can actually suffer worse in the heat without their protective coat to keep the sun off of their skin. A dog's coat acts as insulation against the heat as well as the cold. The key is to keep it brushed and combed. It is actually the air that is trapped between the individual hairs that enhances the insulating effect. Matted hair simply traps heat against the skin. If the coat is badly matted, not only is it uncomfortable and painful for the poor dog, it causes skin problems and sores as well. If the coat is too badly matted to slide a comb through easily, shaving is the only option.

7.    How do I get rid of ticks and fleas? 
There are many flea and tick shampoos and preventatives available both over the counter, and through your vet. Be sure and read the labels carefully before applying them to your dog. Also, there are many topical solutions such as Frontline® plus and Advantix II ® (and many others) that are applied to the dog's skin. These are very effective. We use and suggest topical spot on products, but please consult your vet, as they are up on the newest trends in parasite prevention. PREVENTION of these pests is much easier than removing them.  Flea and Tick collars are NOT an effective preventative! In my opinion, the flea collars are not worthy of money spent and will not fix your problem. If you have a flea/tick infestation in your yard, prepare yourself for battle. A long one. What you may apply to the yard and sleeping quarters today will do nothing to the eggs that hatch in 10 days. You must repeat your chemical application every 10 days for at least 30 days to be effective. Be sure to keep your dog off the treated ground until it is dry. Products should be rotated (one application of one, the next application of the other) as ticks quickly develop immunity to a chemical if it is used over and over. Adaptable little devils, huh?
Or, you could call an exterminator and let HIM take care of it.

8.    My dog stinks even after I give him a bath! What gives?  
This could be caused by any number of things, but right off the bat, check his ears. If he has drop ears (like a hound dog), they can't get good air circulation and become stinky really fast. If ears pass inspection, check his teeth and breath. If they have bad breath and then lick themselves, they can get stinky faster that you can clean them! Have the vet clean the dog's teeth, then get yourself a toothbrush and some doggie tooth gel and brush his teeth just like you do your own. There are special toothpastes that are flavored so the dogs actually learn to like it! NEVER USE HUMAN GRADE TOOTHPASTE ON PETS, AS IT CAN KILL THEM!  If neither of those things are the culprit, it could be anal glands. These are glands on either side of the rectum and are supposed to lubricate when the dog has a bowel movement. However, sometimes these glands get impacted and need to be drained. Your Groomer or vet can help you with this. And sometimes, when dogs get excited or scared, like during a bath or while being blow-dried, they will express these glands on their own, producing a musky, and sometimes quite fowl odor which is definitely strong enough to negate your bath! If none of these seem to be your problem, then a trip to the vet is definitely in order. Several skin diseases can be smelled before they can be seen.

9.    I heard onions were bad for dogs; similar to chocolate. Is that true? 
Yes, especially raw ones. They are toxic and can kill your dog. Another bad food that so many people give as treats are grapes! Also cherries, cranberries, raisins…

10. Can I give my dog Tylenol as a pain reliever? 
NO!! A dog can tolerate aspirin, but NOT Tylenol. DO NOT give EITHER product to a cat. Please call your vet or a local emergency vet if you believe that your pet is in pain and needs medication for it. Pain is a symptom of a problem, and you want to get to the root of the problem instead of just getting rid of the pain. Pain relief can often mask a serious medical problem.

11. I trimmed my dog's toenail too short and it began to bleed... HELP! 
There are many styptic powders available and you should have one on hand BEFORE you start to trim nails. However, if you don't have any, get a pinch of cornstarch between your thumb and forefinger and apply it to the nail. Pack it on the end of the nail and hold the pressure for a minute or two, or until the bleeding stops. The dog won't like having to be still that long, but be persistent.

12. Is there any kind of shampoo or conditioner that will prevent mats? 
No, Sorry. BRUSH! BRUSH! BRUSH! COMB! COMB! COMB! There are a few products that can help you out while you are brushing and combing, but non that will magically de-mat your dog.

13. What's the best kind of hair brush to use on my long haired dog? 
A "pin" brush is good if you brush daily. Otherwise, you're going to need a "slicker" brush to remove small tangles and debris from the coat. Your brush should have metal tines, and should not have any little “ball tip” at the end as this actually produces static electricity in the coat and that helps to form mats in the coat. So do all plastic or nylon bristle brushes. Sadly, this is the most common type of brush being sold to most pet owners.
Another vital tool is a metal toothed comb. You should always check the coat after you think it is brushed out. The metal comb should glide through the coat with ease, not getting caught in any small tangles. If you encounter a tangle, get out the brush and get through it. Combs come in 3 types. Fine tooth, medium tooth, and coarse tooth. If your dog has a silky coat, (Yorkie, Maltese) a fine tooth will work best, and if your dog has a thick or curly coat, (poodle, bichon)  a coarse toothed comb will work best. If your pet has a medium coat, (pom, peke, cocker) not too fine and not too thick, then a medium comb will work best for you.

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